|1||Impulse Control||Game||Aeroplane Game||10||:00-:10||:30-:40|
|2||Impulse Control||Game||Toy Switch||10||:10-:20||:40-:50|
|3||Impulse Control||Discussion||Impulse Control||10||:20-:30||:50-:00|
|4||Impulse Control||Game||Mouse Game||10||:30-:40||:00-:10|
|5||Impulse Control||Game||Get It||10||:40-:50||:00-:20|
Add bits of frustration for frustration inoculation - ditch the bowl
|1||Disengagement||Game||Distraction > Mark > Treat||10||:00-:10||:30-:40|
|2||Disengagement||Game||A to B||10||:10-:20||:40-:50|
|3||Disengagement||Discussion||Disengagement - Prompting v Capturing||10||:20-:30||:50-:00|
I think that depends on the distance from the distraction and how much you’ve been practicing DMT. The more that you play DMT, the more likely your dog is to disengage voluntarily as they’ve learned that with distractions come rewards.
Distance is key too. Your dog is more likely to be able to disengage when the distraction is in the distance than when it’s close up.
Consider the likely outcome too. Is the distraction likely to remain a safe distance? In which case waiting for your dog to look away of their own accord would be great. If however the distraction is coming closer, allowing your dog to stare at it and anticipate its arrival is unlikely to have a good outcome and prompting disengagement would be the best choice in these circumstances.
How best to reward disengagement? That depends on what the dog finds rewarding. In some instances rewarding the dog with high value food whilst walking away from a distraction would be appropriate. Food isn’t your only option. You could use a game, or environmental rewards, such as sniffing. You could use the get it game as a reward, for example, as a reward for disengaging from a favourite toy, you could tell them to get the toy and have a game with it.